What Welsh people wore in 1100: A glimpse into fashion in the past
Fashion tells us so much about the way in which people lived in times past and gives us a really good sense of what was important to them as well as underlining the social structures that existed.
In 1100, Wales as we know it was divided into a number of different kingdoms. For the most part, there would be little difference in the clothes that the common people wore in different kingdoms although the royals often adopted some fashion styles from their overseas allies or from the Normans in England. This adoption of other clothing styles from abroad can be seen as illustrated by the story of Magnus Barelegs, King of Norway who received his nickname by preferring to wear the short tunic and bare legs of Gaelic dress.
There was no traditional Welsh dress as such in 1100 but Welsh people wore everyday clothing crafted from locally sourced materials. Welsh wool was particularly fine and was fashioned to make practical garments that were warm in winter and cool in summer. Everyday wear for the common folk typically consisted of simple garments suited for work and day-to-day activities. It was important for them to be able to move freely and quickly and the materials would need to be suited to hard work in all weathers. Both men and women wore long tunics known as “pais” made from wool or linen. Unlike the dyed colours of noble dress, such garments would be the colour of undyed wool or linen. These tunics reached the ankles, and men often belted them at the waist to provide a more tailored fit. Women, on the other hand, might cinch their tunics at the waist with a decorative belt to add a touch of femininity.
To protect themselves from the unpredictable Welsh weather, the people of this era donned outer layers such as cloaks or mantles. These outer garments were usually made from wool and offered warmth and protection against the elements. Cloaks could be secured with brooches or fasteners, adding a practical yet fashionable touch to their ensemble.
Undergarments when worn were typically made of linen which was both comfortable and easy to wash. Women would wear a shift which was like a thin long tunic and would sometimes have long sleeves. Men would wear either a similar shift or shorter shirt and braies or drawers.
In line with the customs of the time, both men and women would often cover their heads. Men wore simple woollen caps or hooded cloaks, while women favoured a variety of head coverings such as linen veils or coifs. These head coverings not only protected the wearer's hair from dust and dirt but also held symbolic value within Christian culture.
While everyday wear tended to be practical and unadorned, special occasions called for more elaborate embellishments. The Welsh people took great pride in their craftsmanship, and this was reflected in the intricately woven designs adorning their clothing. Embroidery, brocades, and colourful weaves were used to create patterns and motifs that celebrated their cultural heritage.
Footwear in 1100 Wales was primarily utilitarian. Men and women wore sturdy leather shoes or boots to navigate the rugged terrain of the region. These shoes were often laced up and designed for durability, providing adequate protection during their daily endeavours. For the nobles, it was not unusual to wear embroidered slippers made from exquisite fabrics such as silk.
While there was a certain level of continuity in Welsh fashion, social status also played a role in determining clothing choices. Wales was far from a backwater and had alliances with many countries overseas so the nobles were aware of trends beyond their shores. The wealthier members of society had access to more luxurious materials such as silk, velvet, and fur, enabling them to display their elevated status through attire that boasted finer craftsmanship and embellishments. They followed trends as we do today: when sleeves became narrower for the nobles of Europe, for example, so they became narrow for the nobles in Wales.
If you are interested in historical fiction and want more of a glimpse into life in Wales in the Middle Ages, you might like to read, ‘The Welsh Traitor’s Daughter’